Tempting kebabs, scented biryani, and airy, ethereal desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has long been a food lovers' paradise, with locals and visitors equally swearing by its exquisite cuisine.
An International Accolade
Last month, Unesco recognised it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – including it in a select group of world cities and igniting hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's peerless food. With this title, it enters a global network of cities cities across over 100 countries committed to promoting "creativity as a key factor of city development that is sustainable".
The recognition "stands as proof of its profound food heritage and vibrant food ecosystem," as stated by a representative from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to earn a spot in this highly sought-after list of seventy urban centers worldwide.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The accolade for this historic city arrives as no surprise to its inhabitants or avid food lovers. Many agree with the opinion that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO accolade, this adored, bustling, and vibrant city – the capital of India's largest state – is finally in the spotlight for what has consistently characterized its soul: an immense love for food.
"'What will be cooked, the method of preparation' is a continued discussion from morning until going to bed in many homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are often evaluated by the quality of food that comes out of your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of the Nawabs – as it's widely known after its historic opulent Muslim rulers – is renowned for its succulent kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were conceived, evolved, and taken to exquisite levels in their imperial kitchens.
These royal kitchens were centers of food experimentation, fusing Iranian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were fashioned. Legend has it that the galouti kebab was invented to cater to an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His cooks ground the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so soft that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the biggest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, slow heat, with the container's cover securely sealed with dough.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Besides the famous kebabs and biryani, the cooks also built up a collection of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is also a haven for vegetarians.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just celebrates local ingredients but also offers the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Nearly on many street corners, there are tiny kiosks and stalls – hidden delights that are wildly favored by the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, large gatherings start milling around from the crack of dawn at a legendary tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, offered in clay glasses, along with fluffy buns covered in hand-churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can make their way to a unpretentious joint situated in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was founded, the place is still highly popular for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also offers unique treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert available in the winter. The process of making it is scientific and complicated. The vendor whisks the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the dew to give it its amazing airy feel.
On cold mornings, street vendors can be seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Many but note that their younger generation are unwilling to master the craft.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's immense food legacy positions it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will materialize only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – shaped by generational food businesses, from modest street carts to busy restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is believed, will motivate more people around the world to explore these tales and experience the city to taste the food wonders of Lucknow.
